When the power goes out, you have four main ways to keep things running: a portable power station, a home battery, a gas or propane generator, or solar panels paired with a battery. Each one fits a different budget and a different kind of outage.
This guide compares them side by side, shows how long each can run common loads, and covers the safety steps you cannot skip.
Why don't my solar panels work during a blackout?
This surprises many solar owners. A standard grid-tied solar system shuts off automatically when the grid goes down, even on a sunny day.
The reason is safety. Lineworkers repairing a downed line expect it to be dead. If your panels kept pushing power onto the grid, they could shock someone. Grid-tied inverters are required to detect an outage and stop within seconds. This is often called anti-islanding protection.
To use solar during an outage, your system needs a way to disconnect from the grid and form its own small "island." That usually means a battery and a hybrid or battery inverter, plus an automatic transfer device. Some inverters offer a small daytime-only outlet that works without a battery, but it only provides power while the sun is shining.
What are your four backup options?
Portable power station
A portable power station is a battery, inverter and charger in one box with outlets on the front. Units from brands like EcoFlow, Jackery, Anker and Bluetti range from about 250 Wh to over 3,000 Wh. You plug devices straight into it. Most can recharge from a wall outlet, a car or portable solar panels. They are quiet, safe indoors and need no install. Their limit is size: a 2,000 Wh unit holds about a fifth of what a typical home battery holds.
Home battery
A home battery is wall-mounted, usually 10 to 15 kWh per unit, and wired into your panel by an electrician. It switches on automatically in an outage, often so fast the lights barely flicker. It costs far more than a power station, but it runs whole circuits rather than a few cords. Read home solar batteries explained for cost and sizing.
Gas or propane generator
Portable generators cost the least for the power you get. A 5,000 to 7,500 watt unit can run a fridge, sump pump, lights and even a well pump. Standby generators sit outside, run on natural gas or propane, and start on their own. The trade-offs are noise, fuel storage, regular maintenance and exhaust. Generators produce carbon monoxide, which can kill. Never run one indoors, in a garage, or near windows and doors.
Solar plus battery (islanding)
Pairing rooftop solar with a home battery gives you a system that can recharge itself each day. In a long outage, this is the only option that does not run out of fuel. On a sunny day, a 6 kW solar array can make 20 to 30 kWh, enough to refill a 13.5 kWh battery and run daytime loads too. Cloudy days and winter cut that sharply, so plan with care.
How do the options compare?
| Option | Typical cost | Usable energy | Noise and fumes | Install needed |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Portable power station | $300–$3,000 | 0.25–3 kWh | Silent, none | No |
| Home battery | $10,000–$16,000 installed | 10–15 kWh per unit | Silent, none | Yes, electrician |
| Portable generator | $600–$2,000 plus fuel | Unlimited with fuel | Loud, exhaust | Transfer switch or interlock recommended |
| Standby generator | $8,000–$18,000 installed | Unlimited with fuel | Moderate, exhaust | Yes, electrician and gas |
| Solar plus battery | Battery cost plus solar | Battery size, refilled by sun | Silent, none | Yes, electrician |
Prices are typical ranges and quotes vary by region, product and how much wiring work your home needs.
How long will each option run common loads?
To estimate runtime, divide usable energy by the power the device draws. For battery options, multiply by about 0.85 to account for inverter losses. Here is the formula:
Runtime (hours) = battery Wh × 0.85 ÷ device watts
For example, a 1,000 Wh power station running a 20-watt Wi-Fi router: 1,000 × 0.85 ÷ 20 = 42.5 hours.
| Load | Typical average watts | 1,000 Wh station | 2,000 Wh station | 13.5 kWh home battery |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fridge (cycling) | 150 | 5.7 hours | 11 hours | 3 days |
| Small device such as a CPAP-type machine, no humidifier | 40 | 21 hours | 42 hours | 12 days |
| Wi-Fi router and modem | 20 | 42 hours | 85 hours | 24 days |
| Six LED bulbs | 60 | 14 hours | 28 hours | 8 days |
| Sump pump (running) | 800 | 1 hour of run time | 2 hours of run time | 14 hours of run time |
These are rough estimates. Real use varies with your device, the temperature and how often motors cycle on. A sump pump only runs when water rises, so 2 hours of run time might cover a full day in a light storm or a few hours in a heavy one. Sump pumps and fridges also need a start-up surge two to three times their running watts, so check that your power station's surge rating can handle it.
To test your own list of devices, try the power station calculator or the battery sizer.
Do you need a transfer switch or interlock?
If you only plug devices directly into a power station or generator with extension cords, you do not need any panel work. Use heavy-duty outdoor cords rated for the load, and keep the generator well away from the house.
If you want to power circuits in your home panel, such as a hardwired furnace or well pump, you need a transfer switch or a generator interlock kit. Both make sure your home is disconnected from the grid before backup power flows in. Without one, power can feed back onto utility lines and injure lineworkers. It can also damage your equipment when the grid returns.
Never use a "suicide cord," a cord with plugs on both ends, to backfeed a dryer or wall outlet. It is dangerous and illegal in most places. Installing a transfer switch, interlock or inlet box is a job for a licensed electrician, and most areas require a permit.
Which backup option should you choose?
Match the option to your typical outage and what you truly need to run.
- Short outages of a few hours, renters or small budgets: a 1,000 to 2,000 Wh portable power station covers Wi-Fi, phones, lights and a fridge for part of a day.
- Frequent outages lasting one to two days: a home battery on essential circuits gives quiet, automatic backup. A generator with an interlock is the low-cost alternative.
- Long outages after storms, or homes with well pumps: a standby generator, or solar plus a battery bank large enough for your winter needs.
- You already have solar: adding a battery lets your panels keep working in an outage and may also cut your bills, depending on your utility's rules.
Many households combine two options. A small power station handles the first few hours. A generator takes over if the outage drags on. If you are thinking about solar plus storage, get a few installer offers through our quotes page and compare them.
Frequently asked questions
Can I run a portable power station indoors?
Yes. Power stations make no exhaust, so they are safe indoors. Keep them dry, ventilated and away from heat sources while charging.
Can a power station run my whole house?
No. Even large units hold 2 to 5 kWh, and a typical home uses about 25 to 30 kWh per day. They are best for a few key devices.
Is it safe to run a generator in my garage with the door open?
No. Carbon monoxide can build up quickly even with the door open. Run generators outdoors, well away from windows, doors and vents, and use a battery-powered CO alarm inside.
Will a home battery switch on automatically?
Most do. When the grid fails, the system disconnects from it and powers your backup circuits, usually within a fraction of a second.
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